Copenhagen - Haverne (the Gardens)

Copenhageners love their gardens, and I love Copenhagen’s gardens. From small, hidden gems (‘Kierkegård’s’ garden, behind the Black Diamond), well-kept cemeteries (Assistens Kirkegård in Nørrebro) and those fit for royalty (Rosenborg Have and Frederiksberg Have). Stop by a bakery or deli (or the supermarket Irma, if you’re stuck), bring a book and strip off (to your underwear, if you please, no-one will blink an eyelid) and let a lazy afternoon pass you by.

Frederiksberg Have

The Pacifier Tree in Frederiksberg Have, where little ones leave their pacifiers with farewell messages when they've become big girls or boys. Here is an example -

"Goodbye Pacifier. My best friend. I love you. I'll miss you. But now I'm a big girl, and mom and dad say I don't need you anymore... Ida, 3 years + 3 months."

Cute, huh?

Assistens Kirkegård. Resting place of HC Andersen, Søren Kierkegård, and a really lovely spot to have a yarn and top up your tan.

Copenhagen - Søerne (the Lakes)

In contrast to the harbour, the lakes are subtle in their beauty, whether for a stroll, run, cycle or coffee, or during a particularly cold winter, a skate across the ice. To the north of them lies Nørrebro (edgy, eclectic, great nightlife and great vintage shops) and Østerbro (more refined, with unique boutiques and pretty cafes).

And there are, um, lots of swans there.

(Photograph courtesy of Hans H. Baerholm (c) 2010 - cheers Hansi, hope you don't mind)

Copenhagen - Havnen (the Harbour)

Kastellet, a remnant of the old town's ramparts, and just a lovely place to ride around.

View out to the new Opera House. Cycling along this stretch of waterfront, starting from the Kastellet, is probably one of my all-time favourite things.

The deck adjacent to the ‘Black Diamond’ (Den Sorte Diamant), the King’s Library, for taking in the sun and sinking beers late into the day.

Ok not strictly the harbour, this is Amager Beach, framed by wind farms at one end and the Øresund bridge connecting Denmark and Sweden, at the other. Its worthwhile visiting, but better swimming is to be had at the harbour pool at Islands Brygge.

Nyhavn - probably Copenhagen’s most well-known attraction. Best enjoyed with some BYO beers or cider (duck into any shwarma or thai takeaway joint and they should set you up without emptying your wallet) whilst dangling your feet over the ledge. Hugely unenjoyable if you’re dining/drinking at one of the tourist traps along the waterfront – you have been warned. Don’t forget mozzie repellent.

Copenhagen, Jeg Elsker Dig

My favourite city and spiritual home, Copenhagen, could not be done justice in just one post. Instead, dear reader, you’ll get half a dozen, whether you like it or not.

And for the record, its pronounced Copen-hay-gen. You’re no more authentic if you say Copen-har-gen, instead you’ll just sound like a knob/CNN reporter.

Sweet Louisiana

The only good reason to leave Copenhagen on a fine day is to visit the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art at Humlebæk, about 45 minutes north of the city. Actually, I think its my favourite art museum in the whole world. There, I've said it.

Of course, the exhibitions - both permanent and temporary - never cease to blow me away. They're always doing something a bit different. Loved the Munch/Warhol and Sophie Calle exhibitions - and Brancusi has never looked better.

But its the location that takes the cake.

A pocket on the Danish coast with views over the Sound to Sweden with a little beach for swimming.

Sculpture gardens for picnicking (Yes! Eat, smoke, sit on The Art!) and a short'n' sweet ride through woody glens back to Nivå or Klampenborg stations, where you can quickly zip back to the city on a train coz stuff just WORKS in this country.

And the nineteenth century villa (once owned by a nobleman with a penchant for the name 'Louise' - where is the nobleman with a penchant for 'Samantha', huh?) stunningly renovated in the 50s to accommodate the museum is art in itself.

So I'm gushing. So what.

Copenhagen Cycle Chic

In the Prelude, I foreshadowed that this blog would hold a cycle chic contest between those oft-confused (not sure why...) Dutch and Danes. I thought it would be an easy victory for Copenhagen, but I gotta say, I wasn't BLOWN AWAY by the cycle chic on this visit.

That said, it still makes great people-watching (legs, legs and more legs).

Here are some of my favourites...

Loose singlets tucked into high-waisted harem pants and natural leather sandals.

Lovely, simple, summery.

Peroxide blonde and lots of legs. Don't hate it coz you ain't it, Sam.

Lime green speed machine. You could wear a garbage bag and still look good on this thing. Note the cute hat and bare-feet.

A far-cry from the lycra, helmet, space-boot getups you see cruising down Oxford St, Sydney. And helmet hair. Quel horreur!

Its a lifestyle thing. Whatever the occasion and wherever the location, you can get there stylishly, safely, cleanly and greenly on 2 wheels.

San Sebathtian

I hope when I die, I go to heaven, and heaven is like San Sebastian.

These were my highlights:

If you're on a budget, Adore Plaza on Plaça de la Constitution. Clean, comfy and perfectly located.

Bodega Alejandro. Delicious modern Spanish cuisine, the best desserts I've had in a long, long time and lots of free shit! Free amuse bouche (gazpacho shot), free bread (crusty sourdough), free petits fours (almond madelines).

Climb Monte Urgell to see the old castle overlooking the old town. Best early morning.

Go up the funicular at Monte Igueldo for panoramic views of San Sebastian, and awesome retro rides!

Channel your inner Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief and get in some sun worship at Playa de la Concha and alternate with swims out to the floating pontoons. If the Aussies are too annoying, move up to Playa de Ondaretta, where the locals hang out.

Try the pintxos at La Cepa, Ganarias and La Cuchina de San Telmo. Have one of those beer with lemon juice concoctions - surprisingly delicious and refreshing!

Spanglish

I've long suspected, and my recent visit has only confirmed, that in my next life, I want to be Spanish.

I surmise this would be a good thing because:

1. I would be able to siesta every day.
2. I could eat tapas and pintxos and chocolate croissants and cheese and still be skinny.
3. I could shop at Zara, Oysho, Uterque and Bimba y Lola whenever I wanted.
4. I would have something in common with Penelope Cruz.